Sherlock Coat

Ever since I watched the BBC series “Sherlock” I knew I wanted Sherlock’s Coat. So here is how I made my own:

The facts: 

Fabric:  approx. 3m 100% wool, 2m cotton-satin lining
Pattern: loosely based on Burda Pattern 102 and 104 12/2012
Year: 2014 (started research in 2013)
Notions: Lining; 10 leather buttons; shoulder pads

Costs: all in all about 70€

·         At first I searched the Web for existing patterns and pictures of the BelstaffMilford Coat.

·         Afterwards I read “A study in Coat” by jessamygriffin

·         Helpful list of measurements for the real coat size L

·         Then I searched for a pattern similar to the coat. It took some time but finally I found a matching Burda pattern. My coat is a mix of pattern 102 and 104 Burda 12/2012. It has a similar collar and front, and perfect back section seams to fit the pleats. I copied the pieces and made a list of changes and extra pattern pieces. 

Changes:

·         Added 3,5cm to the collar (and I should have modified the front – I didn’t get the angle right)

·         Didn’t add the vents at the sleeves and the shoulder tabs

·         Pleats at the back: For the upper part I added 5cm, for the lower part I merged pieces 11 and 12 and added 16cm for the pleats.

Additional pattern pieces:

·         Welt pockets: 4x16cm

·         Front pockets: flap 7x15cm, pocket 20x15cm

·         Cuffs: 7cm

·         Belt: 5,5cm ( the buttons on the belt are positioned in line with the pleats)

lower back pieces

sleeves and cuff

upper front pieces and welt pocket

upper back pieces, belt, collar and lower front pocket

·         Did a long search for the right fabric and buttons. Finally found a satisfying one on ebay (approx. 8,40€ per m). The leather buttons are slightly smaller than the original ones (2cm Ø instead of 2,5cm Ø). Otherwise they would have been too big for the size of my coat. I bought 10 buttons for 8,90€.

·         It took me some time to start sewing the coat because I wasn’t sure if it would work out as imagined. I never sewed a coat before, only one jacket with lining. I wanted this coat to be perfect and fit nicely.

·         Difficulties:

·         I wasn’t facing any major difficulties – the only problem was my carelessness. I didn’t sew the pleats of the lining in the right direction, so they do not align with the outer fabric correctly. They are mirrored but shouldn’t be.

·         I should have used a thicker interfacing for the collar to make it stiffer, especially when it’s turned up.

·         The whole process was exciting and nerve-wrecking. I learned a lot of new stuff while sewing the coat. I wasn’t sure how to insert the sleeves and the shoulder pads. So I had to look it up on youtube: Mia Führer’s “Blazer nähen, Folge 11 Ärmeleinsetzen” helped me a lot.

·         It took about one week for me to finish it.

·         In retrospect I should have paid more attention to the details:

·         How the original coat has been topstitched (mainly at the collar).

·         The front angle of the collar.

·         How you sew the hem the right way to still allow the pleats to move smoothly.

·         Where to place the lower front pockets so they don’t collide with the buttons.